After the Reed Flute Cave tour, the cold and hunger led us to a small village for lunch. Our guide said this is what the locals eat every day, simple farm-to-table cooking. The place looked rustic, with racks of smoked meat and sausages hanging outside and tables set under umbrellas.

The free range chicken was freshly slaughtered for our meal, chopped with bones in and stir-fried with mushroom. Head, neck and feet included! The roast goose was a little dry for my liking, but the fish, first fried and then braised with tomato and tofu, was hearty and flavourful. The yam with meat balls was light and refreshing, a nice contrast to the stronger dishes.

Everything was rough and unpretentious, cooked with a rustic charm that spoke of village life. Ashton and Audrey enjoyed the heartiness of the meal, while the rest of us agreed it was an experience worth remembering.