Ashley first discovered this place sometime last November during their soft launch. Back then, the chef was still testing and refining the menu, figuring out what would finally make the cut. She liked it so much that she kept going back across the causeway just to eat there. She was even invited to their official launch in February, but it fell on a weekday, so she had to give it a miss. Last Friday, she decided it was time to bring all of us along.
NooDuo is run by husband and wife duo Shawn Shum and Sunny Cheong, both formerly from French Restaurant Kioku. The space is simple, but the cooking is thoughtful and precise. They started with operating hours from 11am to 6pm, but now it is straightforward. They open at 11am and close when the noodles are sold out. That already tells you quite a bit.
Their noodles are made fresh daily using a blend of French T55 flour, Italian 00 flour and plenty of egg yolks. The texture is what stood out immediately. Springy, bouncy, with a clean bite that holds everything together nicely.
We tried a mix of their signature bowls. The cold noodles were refreshing, especially the Negitoro (RM48) with chopped tuna toro, yuzu, shallots and sesame. Light, bright and very easy to enjoy. The shrimp version (RM58) came with four raw sweet prawns, simple but very satisfying. The tossed noodle with coriander chicken (RM34) was comforting, with shredded chicken, plenty of spring onion and a fragrant coriander dip that brought everything together.
Then came the clear soup noodle. The broth is inspired by French consommé, simmered for hours and carefully clarified until it turns crystal clear. The result is a clean, deep flavour that does not rely on heaviness. We had it with pork (RM34) cooked in port wine, sliced and served with leek and spring onion. Simple on paper, but very well done.
We also ordered a few sides. The pork jowl (RM78) was crisp on the outside and tender inside, rich but not overwhelming. The pan seared halibut (RM38) with beurre blanc clearly showed their French roots. Clean flavours, nicely balanced, no fuss.
Dessert was a nice finish. Rum canelé (RM16 2pcs), a dark rum tiramisu (RM23), and a chocolate dessert (RM38) with aerated chocolate, crumble and caramel foam. Not just an afterthought, but properly executed.
Overall, the noodles were the highlight. Good ingredients, careful cooking, and a style that feels a little more refined than your usual bowl. Not the cheapest meal in JB, but one that I would not mind crossing the causeway again for. Sometimes, it is nice when a simple bowl of noodles comes with this much thought behind it.
NooDuo by KIOKU
13 Jalan Dedap, Taman Melodies
80250 Johor Bahru
Johor Darul Ta'zim
Malaysia