We walked into Jangeo Sidae (장어시대) near Namdaemun Market expecting a simple grilled eel lunch. We walked out with one of the most talked-about dining experiences of our entire Korea trip.
Before visiting, we simply ordered all three of the restaurant's signature items: freshwater eel (淡水鳗鱼), live hagfish (活盲鳗) and boneless beef short ribs. We thought it would be a great way to sample their specialities. Little did we know that one of them would leave quite an impression on us.
The freshwater eel was brought over fresh before being expertly filleted, grilled over charcoal and cut into bite-sized pieces. The flesh was firm yet delicate, with a natural sweetness and rich flavour that needed little more than a touch of salt or a dab of sauce. Wrapped in lettuce with garlic and ssamjang, every bite was wonderfully satisfying. It was easily our favourite dish of the meal.
Then came the hagfish.
What we didn't realise was that the hagfish would be skinned and grilled while it was still alive. Watching it wriggle on the grill was honestly quite confronting. It was clearly an authentic local delicacy and something many Koreans enjoy, but for some of us at the table, it was simply too much. A few completely lost their appetite after witnessing the preparation.
We did try it. The cooked hagfish had a pleasantly chewy texture and a mildly smoky flavour, but the experience of watching it being prepared overshadowed the taste itself. It became one of those travel moments that you'll never forget, even if you don't necessarily want to repeat it.
Thankfully, the boneless beef short ribs brought everyone back to the table. Juicy, tender and beautifully caramelised over charcoal, they were comforting, familiar and thoroughly delicious. Together with the grilled eel, they more than made up for the emotional roller coaster.
Not every memorable meal is memorable for the same reason. Some stay with you because of the food, while others become unforgettable because of the experience. Lunch at Jangeo Sidae was definitely both.