Tenuta dei Fiori
This was the day I had been looking forward to most, and it eventually became my favourite day of the entire trip.
We spent the whole day at Tenuta dei Fiori in Calosso. Valter and Yvette had already harvested almost all their vineyard plots, but knowing that we wanted to experience a proper grape harvest, they deliberately left one special plot for us, the Gamba di Pernice.
This rare ancient Piedmontese red grape is the heart of Calosso DOC, one of Italy’s smallest appellations. It is also known as Gamba Rossa, meaning “red leg”, referring to the distinctive reddish stalks of the bunches.
Armed with secateurs, gloves and probably far too much enthusiasm, we headed into the vineyard. Cutting bunches looked easy until we actually started doing it. Suddenly everyone became very serious about finding the perfect bunch. For a few hours, we were honorary vineyard workers, although I suspect our productivity would not have impressed any professional harvest team.
Just when we were getting into our rhythm, Valter called a halt for lunch. And who was cooking? The winemaker himself. He prepared a wonderfully simple plate of classic tajarin, Piedmont’s fine egg pasta. Vineyard to dining table does not get much better than this.
In the evening, we toured the winery before settling into the garden with cheese, little bites and a tasting through their wines, including Calosso, R3 Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Cinquefile and Rusticardi 1933.
But the most meaningful part came when we decided to reserve a barrel of the 2026 Calosso, made from the very Gamba di Pernice grapes we had helped harvest that morning. The wine may need another six or seven years before it is ready. Which happens to fit rather nicely with my 60th birthday!
The thought of opening those bottles years from now, surrounded by family and friends, knowing that we actually harvested some of those grapes ourselves, makes this much more than just another wine in the cellar.
The night continued with more wine, lasagne, music, billiards and plenty of laughter.
Some travel days are about seeing famous places. This one was simply about friendship, wine, getting our hands dirty and creating a memory that we may literally drink together years from now.
Definitely my favourite day of Italy 2026.
