Benaras
When an Indian colleague tells you a place is authentic, you listen. That was how we ended up at Benaras in Holland Village, a fairly new addition to the neighbourhood and the brand’s first Singapore outlet after establishing itself in Vietnam.
The restaurant looks rather smart in its green, brown and gold palette, with brass tableware adding plenty of warmth to the setting. Unfortunately, there was a little too much warmth of another kind. The dining room is indoors, but the main entrance is essentially a large open frontage. Even with the air conditioning running, we were feeling rather hot throughout lunch. In Singapore weather, I really think enclosing the space would make the experience much more comfortable, especially during the day.
Food wise, we started with their Signature Benaras Pani Puri, crisp little puris filled with spiced potato, accompanied by mint water and sweet tamarind chutney. Always a fun way to begin a meal, one bite and you get crunch, spice, tang and sweetness all at once.
Our colleague did most of the ordering, which is usually the safest strategy when you have someone at the table who knows the cuisine. The Chicken Chettinad came with a robust gravy fragrant with curry leaves, coconut and spices. I also enjoyed the Baingan Bharta, smoked mashed aubergine cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. It may not be the prettiest dish on the table, but it certainly packed plenty of flavour.
We had both the Mutton Biryani and Vegetable Biryani. Fragrant basmati rice, aromatic spices and generous portions made them very satisfying, particularly the mutton version with its rich, tender pieces of meat. Of course, no Indian lunch feels quite complete without some freshly baked garlic naan to mop up every last bit of gravy.
According to our Indian colleague, the cooking here is pretty authentic, and that is certainly a reassuring endorsement. For me, it was a very enjoyable introduction to Benaras. Sort out the heat in the dining room and I would be much happier sitting there for a long lunch, especially with so many other interesting dishes on the menu still waiting to be tried.
