Having first visited CAPASSO last year, I was curious to see how the restaurant had evolved under Chef Sunny. Manager Ross recently alerted me to their newly launched dinner tasting menu, priced at just $88++ per person. In today's dining scene where tasting menus often cross the three figure mark with ease, this felt like a rather compelling proposition.

Dinner started with freshly baked rye and pumpkin seed sourdough paired with smoked nori butter. The bread arrived warm with a lovely crust and chew, while the pumpkin seeds added an extra layer of texture and nuttiness that made each bite more interesting. Paired with the savoury smoked nori butter, it was a simple but satisfying start to the meal.

The amuse bouche of heirloom cherry tomatoes, raspberry coulis and Earl Grey jelly was visually attractive, though it did not leave quite the same impression as the courses that followed. Refreshing enough, but the flavours felt a little restrained and lacked the impact needed to properly kickstart the menu.

The tuna carpaccio was attractively presented and paired with avocado cream, herb salad and bottarga. While the flavours worked well together, the cut of tuna used was not quite my personal preference for a raw fish dish. Hamachi or salmon would have elevated the experience further, though I recognise that ingredient selection must be balanced against the very approachable price point of the tasting menu.

One of the highlights of the evening was the capellini with Carabinero red prawns and caviar. The sweetness of the prawns, the briny pop of the caviar and the delicate capellini created a flavour combination that I thoroughly enjoyed. However, I was less convinced by the addition of the kombu consommé. While it was intended to bring the elements together, I felt it actually diluted some of the flavours instead. Personally, I would have preferred a light sauce coating the thin strands of pasta rather than a broth, allowing the sweetness of the prawns and the savoury notes of the caviar to come through with greater intensity. Even so, it remained one of the more memorable courses of the evening.

For the mains, we sampled both the grilled black cod and the USDA Prime striploin tagliata. The black cod was moist and flaky, complemented by a saffron caper cream that added richness without overwhelming the fish. The striploin was cooked to a beautiful medium rare and served with truffle mashed potato and Marsala wine sauce. There was nothing particularly revolutionary about the dish, but it was confident, comforting and well executed.

Dessert arrived in the form of pistachio tiramisu. Generous with Sicilian pistachios and nicely balanced in sweetness, it provided a satisfying finish without feeling overly rich or heavy.

What impressed me most about this menu was not any individual dish but the overall thoughtfulness behind it. Chef Sunny's experience is evident throughout the meal. While grounded in Italian cooking, the menu draws inspiration from Japanese and Mediterranean influences to create something contemporary and approachable. Not every course was a home run, but there was a clear sense of direction and purpose behind the curation.

Wine lovers will be pleased to know that CAPASSO also offers corkage free BYO on selected evenings. In a city where corkage charges can sometimes rival the cost of a decent bottle, this alone makes the restaurant worth considering for a gathering with fellow wine enthusiasts.

The ingredients may not be the most luxurious, but at $88++ per person, this tasting menu delivers considerably more than one might expect. CAPASSO may not be chasing Michelin stars, but it is quietly building something equally valuable.

CAPASSO
46 Kim Yam Road
New Bahru #01-11
Singapore 239351