Greece 2026 - Day 7, Naxos
3 May 2026
Naxos, Greece
Weather: Yellow warning for strong winds up to 75km/h. Intermittent rain, hail and dramatic storm clouds throughout the day.
The weather forecast looked dreadful. Strong winds, rain warnings and gloomy skies were hardly what we imagined for a Greek island holiday. Yet after collecting our rental cars, we decided to stick to our original plan and explore the mountain villages of Naxos, while sensibly dropping the hike to Cave Zas.
Breakfast at Oceamo Room 4 was simple but memorable. The Tans sponsored two packets of instant noodles which we cooked with six eggs, while fresh bread from a traditional bakery in Chora was enjoyed with olive oil. The Yaps, as usual, were the early birds and returned with coffees for everyone. It was one of those breakfasts that felt more satisfying because it was shared with good friends.
Our first stop was Filoti, a charming marble village nestled in the mountains. The village square was surprisingly quiet, almost empty, but that only made it more beautiful. Colourful tavernas, flowering plants and marble paved lanes created postcard scenes around every corner. We wandered through little souvenir shops and met a friendly shop owner who had moved from Canada more than twenty years ago in search of a better life in Naxos. Following his directions, we climbed an endless maze of marble stairways through the village, discovering hidden viewpoints while dark storm clouds gathered above us. Fortunately, true to local wisdom, the showers lasted only about ten minutes before moving on.
One of the highlights was stumbling upon a traditional store that felt more like a museum than a shop. Every shelf was packed with vintage household items, old tins, cookware and curios from another era. The elderly owner spoke very little English but communicated brilliantly through gestures, smiles and laughter. Somehow, we all left understanding his philosophy on marriage.
Although we skipped the Cave Zas hike, we still drove to Aria Spring to see the trailhead. It was peaceful and secluded, surrounded by rugged mountain scenery. The visit would have been entirely uneventful had one of us not accidentally stepped on what appeared to be a dried hiker's "landmine". The resulting commotion provided the group with enough laughter for the rest of the afternoon.
By the time we arrived at Apeiranthos, the weather had finally caught up with us. Rain quickly turned into hailstones and we sheltered in the car before making a dash for Taverna Platanos. What followed was exactly the sort of lunch a mountain village specialises in. Huge lamb chops, massive tomahawk steaks, local wines and enough food to make nearby diners stare at our table. I suspect we may have ordered enough for a small football team.
The tomahawk was so large that it deserved its own photograph. The Moutharo red wine from Katriaiosis Winery proved to be the perfect companion, pairing beautifully with the grilled meats.
Back in Chora, the weather finally eased and we ended the evening at Avaton with wines and cheeses overlooking the old town. As the sun slowly disappeared and the lights of Naxos began to glow, it felt like the perfect ending to a day that many would have cancelled because of a weather forecast.
Sometimes travel rewards those who are willing to take their chances. On paper, this should have been the worst day of our Naxos trip. In reality, it turned out to be one of the most memorable.
