Our first meal in Seoul had to be Kkotge Nara (꽃게나라) in Hongdae, and what a way to kick off our Korean adventure.
Freshly checked into our apartment, we dropped our luggage, stretched our legs and took an easy walk through the lively streets of Hongdae. The energy was infectious. Young crowds, music spilling onto the streets, cafes buzzing and shops everywhere. It felt good to finally be back in Korea.
We had made a reservation for 7pm but arrived about half an hour early, hoping to get lucky. No chance. The restaurant was completely packed and we were politely told to return at our reservation time. That alone told us we had picked the right place.
The star of the dinner was undoubtedly the signature soy marinated crab. One bite and we understood why so many people make a pilgrimage here. The crab was incredibly fresh, sweet and creamy, while the soy marinade was beautifully balanced. It enhanced the natural flavour of the crab without overwhelming it. Absolute da bomb.
The soy marinated shrimp was every bit as addictive. Plump, silky and bursting with umami, they disappeared from the plate in no time.
What impressed us even more was that the rest of the menu did not feel like supporting acts. The seafood pancake arrived crisp around the edges with generous chunks of seafood. The crab ramen was comforting, rich and packed with flavour, especially after all the crab juices had found their way into the broth. The spicy tofu soup had just the right amount of heat, while the abalone porridge was smooth, comforting and full of seafood sweetness.
We also enjoyed the beautifully seasoned beef tartare, the light and fluffy steamed egg that practically melted in the mouth, and every complimentary side dish that kept finding its way onto our table.
Sometimes the first meal of a holiday sets the tone for everything that follows. This was one of those dinners. Great food, a lively atmosphere and the excitement of discovering a new city with family. We walked back through Hongdae with very happy stomachs and even bigger smiles, already wondering what our next meal in Korea would bring.
If this was how our trip was going to begin, we knew we were in for something special.