Our guide brought us here for lunch on our first day in 阳朔兴坪, a small old town made famous by the beautiful karst mountains and the Li River scene printed on the back of the 20 RMB note. It was a gentle start to the day, with misty hills in the distance and the river flowing quietly just nearby.
The restaurant is called 刘姐. I could not help but wonder if the name came from the famous Chinese musical film 刘三姐, a story about a legendary folk singer from Guang Xi. I am not that old, but I still remember the show and the mountain songs sung by 刘三姐 because my parents used to play them at home when I was little. Being here, surrounded by the same landscapes, brought back those memories in a very natural way.
刘姐 is best known for their 啤酒鱼. This was our first beer fish of the trip, and also the only one cooked right in front of us at the table. The fish arrived fresh, followed by vegetables and sauce, then beer was poured in as it gently simmered. The aroma slowly filled the air, and watching it cook became part of the meal. The flavours were comforting and balanced, slightly spicy, savoury, and perfect with rice.
We also tried a few other local dishes. River prawns that were sweet and crisp, braised pork belly with yam that was rich and soft, and a plate of homemade fresh whole tofu that tasted clean and reassuring. Simple food, cooked with confidence.
It was an easy and enjoyable lunch. Good food, a beautiful setting, and a quiet sense of nostalgia. A lovely introduction to 阳朔, and a gentle beginning to our many beer fish meals on this trip.