Kotuwa has always held a special place in my food memory. I still remember my first visit years ago when it was tucked away in Little India. The food back then felt new, exciting and full of character, full of bold spices, familiar yet different enough to make me curious about Sri Lankan cooking. This time, I finally returned to try the restaurant at its new home in New Bahru, and it felt like meeting an old friend who had grown up and changed a little.

We started with the appetisers, devilled cashews tossed with curry leaves, pickled lychee, banana blossom puff and mutton rolls. They looked promising, but to be honest, these felt a little tame compared to my memory of Kotuwa’s punchier flavours. The textures were spot on, yet the taste somehow missed the spark that once hooked me.

The meal picked up with the lamb shank braised in Sri Lankan red curry. The meat was beautifully tender, falling off the bone, and the curry had that deep, complex spice that reminded me why I first fell in love with Kotuwa’s food. It was rich and satisfying without being heavy. The fried beef cheek in sweet tamarind, chilli and lime dressing was another highlight, packed with flavour and texture. The sweetness and spice danced together, and a squeeze of lime lifted the dish with a bright finish.

Then came the familiar favourites, kothu roti, hoppers and the malu kirata. The kothu roti, chopped up and stir fried with eggs and vegetables, was hearty and comforting, and the hoppers arrived beautifully crisp around the edges with soft, spongy centres ready to soak up curry. I enjoyed the malu kirata of whole crispy jade perch cooked in aromatic yellow curry gravy. The skin crackled perfectly and the sauce balanced spice and creaminess nicely. The curried cauliflower too had lovely aromatics, though it leaned more towards subtle than bold.

Maybe it was nostalgia, maybe the move to New Bahru brought a gentler touch to the cooking, but I found myself missing that rustic intensity of my first experience. Still, it was a good night of sharing plates, chatting over wine and exploring how Sri Lankan flavours can evolve with a bit more polish.

Kotuwa may no wow me the way it did on my frst visit, but it remains a place worth revisiting for the craft, the warmth and the memories it continues to stir.

Kotuwa
46 Kim Yam Road
New Bahru School Block, #01-03
Singapore 239351