A night at Baan Ah Chew turned into one memorable Thai dinners I have had in a long while. Chef Max Wittawat Chew ran the entire evening as a one-man show – cooking, plating, sharing the stories, and making sure every dish landed at the right moment. That alone was impressive, but when you realise he served us 22 dishes across three regions of Thailand – Southern, Central and Northeastern – you know you are in the hands of someone passionate about his craft.

We started with nostalgic bites like Khao tang na dang ped yang, crisp rice cakes with roasted duck curry dip from a 1968 Thai cookbook, and the vibrant Miang puu, betel leaves stuffed with Surat Thani crab and mango relish. These little parcels were flavour bombs and set the tone for the feast ahead.

What followed was a whirlwind of flavours: the Yum gai saap, crispy chicken fritters tossed with laab spices, crunchy and spicy all at once; my favourite dish Pad krapao neau, Japanese wagyu stir-fried with holy basil and chilies, topped with sunny fried egg, lux and deeply comforting. Even the humble vegetable dish, Bai liang pad kai, stir-fried melinjo leaves with eggs, stood out as one of my favourites for its homely comfort.

Seafood lovers would have been thrilled too with the Yum som o goong with pomelo and tiger prawns, the sweet-savory Pla tod sam rod fried fish with three-flavoured sauce. Both dishes brought freshness and zing.

If I had to pick a couple of dished that did not quite impress me, it was the Neau bing hom – beef skewers with Southern spices and coconut cream. I wished for a touch more char and intensity. And the Yum ped roam kluan. The smoked duck breast was pre-packed, and while dressed up nicely in a salad, it did not have the same handcrafted feel as the other plates. But with so many other dishes delivering so much flavour and variety, these are minor quibble in an otherwise outstanding menu.

Dessert Cha yen itim, Thai milk tea gelato crowned with golden egg threads and peanuts, was clever and comforting, a sweet finish that made everyone smile.

With BYO wines flowing and friends around the table, it was a night of laughter, flavours, and discovery. What struck me most was not just the variety or authenticity, but the sheer heart Chef Max poured into the experience. One chef, 22 dishes, and a table full of memories – that’s Baan Ah Chew.