Walking down Amoy Street, I couldn’t help but smile when I saw the bold red NIU BI sign hanging above the narrow staircase. Just a few months ago, Lincoln Peck was still at his hawker stall at Amoy Food Centre, serving his take on Hock Lam style beef noodles. Now he has moved up, literally, into a shophouse, sharing space with The Single Cask whisky bar on the second floor. A brave move, though foot traffic might be a challenge.

Ashley has been nudging me to come here after hearing good things, so off we went for lunch. The moment we stepped in, the whisky bar setting struck me. Warm wood, shelves lined with bottles, and cosy leather seats. It didn’t feel like a noodle joint, but somehow it worked.

We started with the Mount Niu Bi ($24). Ramen tossed in black garlic marrow sauce, topped with torched Wagyu cubes, beef slices, tendon, and beef balls. The beef portion was generous and satisfying. The noodles were springy, the marrow sauce deeply umami, and with the chili, it was simply shiok.

Then came the classic, the Signature Mix ($10). This is Lincoln’s original Hock Lam style beef noodles, which you can have dry or in soup. We chose dry kway teow, and it came with blanched raw beef slices, beef shank, balls, tendon, and tripe. Everything was spot on, reminding me why this Teochew favourite endures. Add $1 for an onsen egg, or free upsize noodles if you are hungry.

Food aside, what made the visit even better was the people. Lincoln, a little shy but clearly passionate, came out to chat with us. Ranen, who helps in the dining area, was cheerful and welcoming. It felt personal, like supporting someone with a dream.

My take? Lincoln is respectful of tradition, as seen in his Signature Mix, but he is also bold enough to push boundaries, like with the Mount Niu Bi. It is that balance between heritage and innovation that makes Niu Bi stand out.

If you miss it at lunch, you can always come back at night when The Single Cask takes over with whisky and cocktails, plus some of Lincoln’s other creations like halibut sliders and Taiwanese fried chicken.

For me, it was more than just a bowl of noodles, it was about watching a young hawker grow, and daring to build something new on tradition. Worth a visit, whether you are here for lunch or whisky after dark.